Sagrantino: The Story behind the Mysterious Italian Grape

Tucked away in the foothills of the Dolomite Mountains, Elisabetta Foradori is nothing short of a legend — The Queen of Teroldego. Since the 1970s, she has been cultivating a nearly forgotten grape and bringing it roaring back to life. Over the decades, she's turned Teroldego into a world-class wine. The Sagrantino grape is a cousin of Syrah, and Foradori's examples highlight its beautiful blackberry, wild plum, violet, and a touch of pepper character buoyed by fresh acidity. She's considered the Queen for a reason.

But here’s the catch — getting your hands on a Foradori Sagrantino is no easy feat. Her wines are rare gems, and if you find a bottle, consider yourself one of the lucky few. Specialty wine shops might have them, but good luck hunting one down in the greater Sacramento area. If you do, expect to drop anywhere from $30 to $60 — a steal for a sip of this pure Alpine brilliance.

And as you take your first sip of Sagrantino, you might wonder: Where does this history of this rare and ancient grape begin?

The Ancient Roots of Sagrantino

The origins of Sagrantino are shrouded in mystery, which perhaps only adds to its allure. While the first written record of the grape in Umbria, the heartland of Sagrantino, dates back to the late 16th century, it's believed that its history might stretch back even further. Back in the era of Ancient Rome, Pliny the Elder mentioned red wine from the Montefalco area, and some believe that he was talking about Sagrantino. Imagine that – a grape with potential ties to the very roots of Italian winemaking!

The name "Sagrantino" itself is also subject to debate. One possibility is that it comes from the word "sagra," meaning "feast," hinting at its potential historical association with celebratory occasions. Another intriguing theory links it to "sacrestia," or "communion wine," suggesting a possible early role in religious ceremonies. This connection to tradition and perhaps even sacred rituals truly sets Sagrantino apart.

Historically, Sagrantino wasn't always the powerful, dry red wine that many know today. For a long time, it was primarily used to make sweet passito wines. These wines were crafted by partially drying the grapes, concentrating their sugars and flavors, resulting in a thick, syrupy wine with notes of raisin, blueberry, and fig. It's amazing to consider how a grape can evolve its primary expression over centuries!

The Transformation to Dry Red Wine

The modern era of Sagrantino took a turn in the 1970s when Italian producers began to focus on making it in a dry, or secco, style. This shift emphasized the grape’s inherent intensity, leading to its now-typical bold and assertive style. It was in this dry form that Sagrantino truly began to showcase its unique character – defined by a remarkable tannic structure and deep color.

The Heartland of Umbria and Montefalco

Today, almost all of the world's Sagrantino is grown in the beautiful region of Umbria in Central Italy. Specifically, the village of Montefalco and its surrounding area are the epicenter of Sagrantino production

The commitment to quality in Montefalco is evident in the strict regulations surrounding the wine. Montefalco Sagrantino was granted the prestigious DOCG status in 1992, and wines with this designation must be made 100% from Sagrantino grapes and undergo a minimum of 37 months of aging before release. Twelve of those months have to be spent in oak barrels. This extended aging helps tame the grape's powerful tannins and allows its complex flavors to fully develop.

Interestingly, Sagrantino also plays a supporting role in the Montefalco Rosso DOC, a red blend where Sangiovese is the dominant grape and Sagrantino makes up 10-25% of the wine’s composition. This showcases how well Sagrantino can contribute its structure and depth even in a supporting role.

The Unique Characteristics of Sagrantino

What truly sets Sagrantino apart? Well, for starters, it’s known for having some of the highest tannic levels of any wine grape variety in the world. In fact, some experts say it contains more tannin than renowned tannic varieties like Aglianico and Tannat, and about twice the level found in Cabernet Sauvignon or Nebbiolo. This intense tannic structure has been described as "thundering" but also "seductive," leaving a lasting impression on the palate. It’s a wine that certainly isn't shy!

Visually, Sagrantino wines are also quite striking, boasting a deeply dark purple color, often with an almost-black center. On the nose, it offers a captivating bouquet of dark, brooding red fruits, often accompanied by hints of plum, cinnamon, and earthy notes. Some even detect spicy aromas reminiscent of Syrah.

On the palate, Sagrantino is typically full and ample, with a warm, long finish. The pronounced tannins contribute to its structure and aging potential. It’s a wine that many agree needs food to truly shine. Traditionally, it was paired with lamb and Umbrian Easter cake, but it also complements grilled and red meats, earthy sausages, barbecue, wild game, mushrooms, and aged or funky cheeses. The richness and fat in these dishes help to soften the assertive tannins of the Sagrantino, creating a harmonious pairing.

Sagrantino Beyond Italy: A Small Foothold in the United States

While Italy remains its primary home, Sagrantino has found its way to other parts of the world, albeit in smaller quantities. Australia began importing Sagrantino in 1998, and interestingly, Australian Sagrantino wines are often described as more immediately approachable and fruit-driven, with less emphasis on long aging.

Here in the United States, Sagrantino is also gaining a small but dedicated following, primarily in California, but also in states like Washington, Texas, North Carolina, and Arizona. This robust grape can handle hotter and drier conditions than many other traditional grapes. In fact, it demands a long, hot summer and is particularly suited to America’s warmest wine regions.

Vino Noceto and Our Calaveras County Sagrantino

This brings us to our own journey with Sagrantino. As you know, we’re always looking for exceptional grapes to craft wines that excite and delight. That’s why we were so intrigued when we discovered the award-winning Sagrantino grapes being grown right here in the Sierra Foothills at Airola Road Vineyards in Calaveras County.

George and Birgit Klause, the passionate owners of Airola Road Vineyards, have a clear dedication to quality. Situated above New Melones Reservoir, their 11-acre vineyard, planted in 2001, benefits from a unique microclimate – sunny hillside exposure, morning fog, summer winds, and mild winters – which they aptly describe as akin to the ideal Mediterranean climate. This specialized location is clearly perfect for growing exceptional grapes, as evidenced by their numerous awards, including Double Gold and Best in Class at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Tasting Competition.

Among the diverse grapes they cultivate – Barbera, Grenache, Chardonnay, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon – we were particularly drawn to their Sagrantino. As we learned, Sagrantino is a rare Italian varietal, and at the time we began working with them, there were only around 24 acres planted in the entire U.S., with 3 of those precious acres right there at Airola Road Vineyards. These sought-after grapes produce top-quality wines known for being powerful, structured, and complex, with those assertive tannins that Sagrantino is famous for. And indeed, several award-winning Sagrantino wines, fetching upwards of $100 per bottle, have come from their vineyard.

Fortunately for all of our pocket books, you’ll find that our Noceto Sagrantino is available at a slightly more approachable price.

Here at Noceto, we feel a kinship with George and Birgit’s commitment to excellence, echoing our own philosophy: "The secret to great wine starts in the vineyard." At Airola Road Vineyards, they truly produce high-quality grapes that are the foundation for extraordinary wines.

Working with their Sagrantino has been an exciting endeavor for us. We’ve aimed to capture the unique terroir of their Calaveras County vineyard while honoring the inherent characteristics of this fascinating Italian grape. Our Vino Noceto Sagrantino showcases the deep color, the intriguing aromas of dark fruit and spice, and of course, that signature tannic structure that makes Sagrantino so distinctive. It’s a wine that we believe offers a taste of something truly special and reflects the dedication of both our team and the Klauses at Airola Road Vineyards.

A Battle of Flavor: Noceto Sagrantino Faces Off against the Queen, herself, Elisabetta Foradori

Sagrantino, with its intensity and structure, might not be for everyone – as some in popular online communities have noted, it’s a wine that doesn't always please from the first sip and is definitely "not for the faint of heart". Some even jokingly describe it as "taking a baseball bat to my mouth" due to its boldness. However, for those who appreciate big, burly red wines with character and aging potential or enjoy the rewarding experience of pairing a powerful wine with the right food, Sagrantino is a true gem. Many agree that good examples of Sagrantino can offer fantastic value, especially when compared to some other highly sought-after Italian reds, like Piemonte's Barolo.

These intense Teroldegos can be found in vineyards as far from the Italian Alps as Australia and California. The best producers of this grape, wherever they may be found, all do well to keep an eye on how their expressions stack up against the Queen of Sagrantino, Elisabetta Foradori.  

And that's why we put our Teroldego up against the Queen's in a blind tasting battle.  

We were as surprised by the results as we were delighted! They tasted almost identical. Despite the differences in soil and climate, the true Teroldego character shone through both glasses.

While we won't go so far as to call Noceto winemaker Rusty Folena the King of Teroldego (yet), we absolutely invite you to get to know this outstanding grape. We do have two clear advantages over Foradori: ours is in stock and cheaper.

Check out Noceto's Sagrantino.

As always, we are so grateful for your continued support over the years. It’s your enthusiasm that fuels our passion for exploring new horizons in the world of wine. We hope to see you soon here in Shenandoah Valley and Amador County!

Cheers,

Suzy & Jim Gullett, Vino Noceto

Sources: Wine Folly's Guide to Sagrantino, Wikipedia on Sagrantino, Guidi Wines on Sagrantino, Reddit's r/wine Opinion on Sagrantino, Airola Road Vineyards, Tasting Room Lore and Knowledge